If you have shopped for a pre-owned designer bag from Japan, you have seen them: Rank SA, Rank A, Rank AB. Japanese resale shops grade every bag before listing it, and these short codes carry a lot of information — if you know how to read them. This guide explains the six condition ranks we use at BRAND GET, what wear to actually expect at each level, and how to choose the right rank for your budget.
First, an honest warning: ranks are not standardised
There is no industry-wide grading authority for vintage bags. Rank A at one shop can look like Rank AB at another, and some sellers grade generously. That is why the rank should never be the only thing you look at. Treat it as a summary, then confirm it against the detailed photos and the written condition notes (outer, hardware, edges, interior) in the listing. A trustworthy seller shows you the corners, the handles, the hardware and the inside — the places wear actually shows.
With that said, here is exactly what each rank means in our store.
Rank N — Brand New
Our definition: off-the-shelf condition. Never worn, with no defects or alterations.
Rank N is a new bag that happens to be sold through a resale shop — it may have been bought and never used, or kept as a gift. Expect protective film or seals in place where the brand applies them, no marks anywhere, and that unmistakable new-leather smell. If a "brand new" bag is what you want but boutique prices are not, Rank N and Rank S are where to look.
Rank S — Unused
Our definition: impeccable condition, but not quite up to our off-the-shelf standard — for example, protective seals may have been removed.
The difference between N and S is small and mostly technical. A Rank S bag has not been carried, but something minor separates it from a boutique-fresh piece: a seal peeled off, a dust bag creased, a box missing. The bag itself should look flawless in photos. For most buyers, Rank S is the sweet spot for "like new" at a clearly lower price than Rank N.
Rank SA example — a Louis Vuitton Monogram Recital: lightly used and extremely well maintained.
Rank SA — Excellent
Our definition: lightly used and extremely well maintained, with almost no signs of use. May have very minor surface scratches.
Rank SA bags have been carried, but by someone who took care of them. In photos, look for: corners without rubbing, hardware with its shine intact, handles that have not darkened, and a clean interior. Any flaw should be the kind you need to zoom in to find — a faint scratch on hardware, for instance. Because Japan's owners are famously careful and storage conditions are kind, a large share of the best vintage pieces sit at SA.
Rank A — Very Good
Our definition: lightly used item, well maintained but with some signs of use.
Rank A is where honest, everyday wear begins — and where value gets very interesting. Expect light softening of the shape, slight shine or tiny scratches on hardware, maybe gentle darkening on vachetta handles on a Louis Vuitton piece. Nothing structural, nothing that photographs badly. If you plan to actually carry the bag daily rather than collect it, Rank A usually offers the best condition-to-price balance.
Rank AB — Good
Our definition: lightly used, with some visible marks and scratches.
At AB the wear is visible without zooming: corner rubbing, surface scratches, perhaps a small mark inside. The bag is completely usable and presents well at arm's length, but it will not pass as new. Collectors hunting a rare vintage model — a 1990s Chanel flap, for example — often choose AB deliberately: the model matters more than perfection, and the price difference versus SA can be substantial. Always read the photo set carefully at this rank; a good listing will show every mark.
Rank B example — a Fendi Peekaboo Mini: authentic and fully usable, honestly photographed with its signs of previous use.
Rank B — Fair
Our definition: pre-loved item with scratches and marks and signs of frequent use.
Rank B bags have lived a life: noticeable corner wear, scratches, possibly stains or a relaxed shape. They are also the cheapest way into a genuine designer piece — ideal as a carefree daily bag, a restoration project, or a first step into a brand like Hermès before committing to a higher rank. At Rank B, the written condition notes matter most of all; check the interior and odour notes especially carefully.
How to choose your rank
- Buying to collect or gift: N, S or SA. Condition holds value best at the top of the scale.
- Buying to carry every day: SA or A. A-grade bags shrug off the guilt of the first scratch — it is already there, and priced in.
- Hunting a rare or discontinued model: AB or B. For models that appear once a year, condition is negotiable; availability is not.
- On a budget: A and AB are the value ranks. B is a bargain only if the specific flaws listed are ones you can live with.
Three checks before you buy any ranked bag
- Corners and edges. The first place every bag wears. A listing that hides corners is hiding something.
- Handles and hardware. Darkened vachetta and faded gold-tone hardware cannot be undone cheaply.
- Interior and smell. Vintage bags can carry storage odours. Reputable sellers note this; if the listing is silent, ask.
Every bag at BRAND GET is authenticated with Entrupy certification before listing, graded with the ranks above, and photographed in detail — including the flaws. Browse the latest arrivals in our in-stock collection, or try your luck for less in our auctions.